Collar and cuff



June 7, 1938 A. IDE 2,120,147

COLLAR AND CUFF Filed Oct. 12, 1937 E INVENTOR.

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s Sheets-Sheet 1 June 7, 1938.

A. H. IDE 2,120,147

COLLAR AND CUFF I Filed Oct. 12, 1957 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 June 7, 1938. 2,120,147

COLLAR AND CUFF Fi}.ed Qct. 12, 1937 I s Sheets-Sheet s EN TOR.

BY I fl W TTORNEY Patented June 7, 1938 PATENT OFFICE- COLLAR, AND CUFF Ariel n. Ide, Troy, N; Y., assignor' to Jean 0. Ide,

Troy, N. Y.

Application October 12, 1937, Serial No. 168,660

2 Claims. (Cl. 139-3855) This invention relates to improvements in both stand-up collars and in folding or tumed-down collars and in cuffs. The invention relates to collars made up of a collar band portion, and a 5 folding or turned-down portion (ordinarily termed the collar top), which are adapted to be worn without starching and which will nevertheless have a sufiicient degree of stiffness to make the collars self-supporting.

The common forms of soft folding collars, made up of individual layers of fabric sewed together, usually have the defect, that they present a flimsy appearance, and in order to improve their appearance it has been common to embody stiil'eners of various kinds between the layers of fabric, or to apply detachable stifieners to the collars when worn.

In other cases, the folding portion or top, or the collar band portion, or both, are made of sepa- 50 rate plies of fabric secured together by an intermediate binding layer into what is in effect an integral composite fabric.

Prior to my invention, it was the custom of manufacturers of collars to have the upper edge .5 and ends of the collar band linings flush with the upper edge and ends of the inner and outer piles of the bands. It was, also, the custom to have the lower edge and ends of the collar top linings flush with the lower edge and ends of the inner 0 and outer plies of the tops.

This method caused the lower and end edges of the top, when ready to attach to the band, to consist of six layers of fabric. It, also, caused the upper edge and ends of the collar bands to con- 5 sist of six layers of fabric, and at the particular points where the turned ends of the collar top were attached to the turned edge of the collar band, the result was a twelve ply thickness and undesirable.

0 My invention overcomes this fault by turning the outside ply of the collar band over rather than with the band lining and the outside ply of the top over rather than with the top lining,

resulting in five plies of thickness at the turned edges of the finished top and ten plies or thickness where the upper edge of the top is attached to the five ply turned edges of the band.

The numerous plies of the old method of construction caused considerable stretch and strain at the ends of the collar top at the fold line when laundering. This resulted in the fraying, cracking or tearing of the fabric of the outer ply at that point. 5 This is especially true in fused collars, or in collars in which the linings include cementitious threads.

The object of the invention is to manufacture fused collars and cuffs having a cementitious ply without turning or folding the edges, or any por- 5 tion of the cementitious ply, thereby overcoming the tendency of such collars to fray, crack or tear at the fold line and at the edges of the collar tops and bands.

Another of the objects of my invention is to provide a collar with a top lining, the upper and minor portion of which is of different textile specification or construction from the lower or major portion of the lining.

Another object of my invention, particularly in reference to the fold of the outside plies over rather than with the linings, is to provide a method of making all collars and cuffs, whether with cementitious linings or with ordinary soft linings, more economically and more speedily.

Another object of my invention is to provide linings suitable for use in cuffs with portions composed of all cementitious threads or combinations of cementitious and cotton threads, alternating with other portions composed of all cotton threads for use in double cuffs, providing stiffening properties and a flexible fold line when properly fused.

Other objects of my invention are to provide a collar having a smooth outer surface or band in contact with the neck, insuring comfort and coolness to the wearer; obviating the necessity of pulling the neck tie too tight; improving the appearance by permitting the neck tie to fit snugly up into the fold of the collar; greater economy in construction and greater speed in manufacturing.

Another object of my invention is to provide-a more desirable flexible fold portion by means of using in the all cotton sections of the linings,

lighter or heavier warp yarns whichever may best 40 serve the purpose.

Such linings should be woven preferably in curvilinear strips of desired widths, themajor portion to contain in the warp, a desirable number of cementitious threads in combination with cotton threads to cause adhesion, porosity and stiffness when used as a binder with other fabrics and properly fused, and the inner or minor portion to consist of cotton threads only; sothat the collar will naturally fold along this line of increased flexibility and lessen the tendency to fray, crack or tear.

My invention is adaptable not only to linings containing combinations of warp threads alternately cementitious and cotton, but also linings in which the warp threads are all cementitious, and linings cut from a fabric, chemically treated in a way well known in the art, so that a permanent finish is given which will not be lost when the collar is washed.

This invention is intended also to include the process of weaving into linings, warp threads all cementitious in certain sections and all cotton in other sections, also a combination of cementitious and cotton threads in certain sections and all cotton in other sections, whether woven in curvilinear strips of variable widths or woven in regulation widths with all cementitious or part cementitious sections alternating with all cotton sections in a portion or throughout the entire width of the piece.

My invenion provides collars of such character that they may be laundered repeatedly without deleteriously affecting their stiffening properties and at the same time produce a smoother and more flexible folding line, not liable to fray, crack or tear.

With these and other objects in view, my invention consists of the parts and combination of parts hereinafter set forth.

In the drawings:

Figure l is a plan View of the outside ply of a collar band laid fiat with the cementitious lining placed thereon, the edges of the said ply in the right hand section of the view being turned onto the lining.

Figure 2 is an enlarged diagrammatic plan view of a portion of the cementitious lining consisting of the combination of cellulose derivative yarns and cotton yarns in the warp, and cotton yarns only in the weft.

Figure 3 is an enlarged transverse section of the collar band with the edges of the outside ply folded over the lining and the edges of the inside ply turned within at its edges.

Figure 4 is a plan view of a collar top laid flat with the lining placed thereon with the upper edge flush with the corresponding edges of the other plies.

Figure 5 is an enlarged diagrammatic plan view of a portion of the lining material consisting of a combination of cellulose derivative yarns and cotton yarns in the warp of a portion of the fabric and cotton yarns only in the warp in another portion of the fabric and cotton yarns only in the weft of both portions.

Figure 6 is an enlarged transverse section through the collar top with its lining and other plies.

Figure 7 is a detail transverse sectional view of a collar embodying my invention, with the parts spaced showing the joint between the top and the band.

Figure 8 is an enlarged transverse sectional view of the finished collar.

Figure 9 is a plan view of a collar laid fiat with a portion of the outside ply fabric of both top and band broken away.

Figure 10 is a diagrammatic plan view of a complete lining for a double cuff with a combination of cellulose derivative yarns in the warp of the two folds of the cuff and a comparatively narrow integral section of all cotton warp yarns to pro vide a flexible fold line, the weft yarns throughout the fabric being all cotton.

Figure 11 is a diagrammatic plan view of my improved fabric woven in a curvilinear strip with a collar top lining pattern indicated thereon in dotted lines. p

Figure 12 is a diagrammatic plan view showing a portion of my improved lining for cuffs with five cuff linings indicated thereon, the close parallel lines designating the fold line.

The reference letter A designates the band lining and B the outer ply of the band of a collar. It will be noted that the perimeter of the lining A is spaced a distance from the perimeter of the outer ply B, leaving a margin of the outer ply as illustrated in the left hand section of Figure 1, which margin is folded over the edges of the lining, as indicated by B, in the right hand section of the figure.

In a succeeding operation the outside ply and the lining are stitched with the inside ply and the finished top in the process of attaching the top to the band.

This lining A, an enlarged detail view of a portion of which is shown in Figure 2, is composed in the warp of a combination of yarns made up of any suitable cellulose derivative G and cotton yarns H. The weft-contains only cotton yarns. While preferably the lining A is made up of both cotton yarns and cellulose derivative yarns, it is to be understood that it may be made entirely of yarns of cellulose derivative substances except at the fold line of the collar or cuff. It also may be made from a fabric, chemically treated in a way well known in the art, so that a permanent finish is given which will not be lost when the collar is washed.

Figure 3 illustrates the collar band lining A with the outer ply B folded over as at B and spaced away from the inner ply C with its edges C folded inside.

In Figure 4 I have illustrated the top or outer portion of a collar in the left hand section of which D designates the lining composed of a combination of cotton and cellulose derivative yarns, the upper portion of said top being designated by the letter D which portion is composed entirely of cotton yarns to provide a flexible folding line when the collar is properly fused. E designates the outer ply of the top of the collar. It will be noted that the lining is spaced inside the outer ply at the bottom and ends of the ply E, but at the upper edge the lining is flush with the outside ply. In the right hand section of,

Figure 4 the outside ply E has been folded over attached. D and D' designate the top lining and E designates the outside ply folded over the edge of the lining'at E. F designates the inner ply of the top folded in at F. In succeeding operations the ply F is stitched to E and D to complete the collar top ready to attach to the band. The dotted line 0 in Figure 7 designates the junction of the portions D and D of the lining, showing the margin allowed for the flexible fold.

In Figure 8 I have shown a transverse section of the parts shown in Figure 7 assembled in a completed collar.

In Figure 9 I have illustrated a completed collarembodying my invention with parts of the outer top ply E ofthe collar'and of the outer ply B of the band broken away to show the improved lining in position.

The adaptation of my invention in a cull! is illustrated in Figures 10 and 12 wherein that portion of the fabric in the bracket M is composed of cellulose and cotton yarns and that portion in the bracket N is composed only of cotton yarns. In Figure 12 I have illustrated diagrammatically the method of cutting the cuff blanks from the fabric.

In Figure 11 I have illustrated my improved lining as woven 'in a. curvilinear strip for the collar top lining.

What I claim is:

1. A lining for a collar and cut! comprising a textile body having a fold zone, said body having woven therein a substance which is initially non-cementitious, but has the inherent property of being made cementitious, the fold zone of the lining being woven from yarns free from cementitious material. v

2. A lining for a collar comprising a curvilinear textile body having afold zone, said body having woven therein a substance which is initially non-cementitious, but having the inherent property of being made cementitious, the fold zone of 

